Preparing the Incubator for duck eggs:
24 hours before you are ready, the incubator should be prepped. Never use an incubator which hasn’t been sterilized. The styrofoam type incubators are especially vulnerable to fungus and molds. Incubators are run in hot humid areas where mold and fungus thrives, cleanliness is very important, I can’t stress it enough. Eggs are porous, they have little holes to breathe in and out. Bacteria thrive in the incubator from the high humidity and warmth. If the incubator is contaminated, the eggs will become contaminated too. The bacteria will set inside the egg and eat important vitamins and nutrients crucial to the Ducks’ growth. The bacteria is awful, it might easily become toxic and or make your duck eggs sterile among a number of other bad things.
Preparing the duck eggs for incubation:
The duck eggs ought to be room temperature before placing them inside of the incubator. This means leaving them at room temperature for at least 8 hours after removing them from the refrigerator. It is time to inspect the duck eggs. Check your eggs for cracks, remove them and some other abnormally large egg. Trust me, you do NOT want to have an egg to pop in the incubator. It stinks, it’s gross and it will make a mess of your other eggs. Abnormally large eggs could mean multiple yolks and wouldn’t hatch anyway. Remove any dirt or feces out of the eggs if you have not already. Egg shells act like a womb, they allow bad gases to escape and oxygen inside. Mud, feces or some other contaminants on the shell will clog the very small holes that enable the duck egg to breathe. If you need to use water make it warm, cold contracts, heat expands. Warm water will push bacteria out from the holes while cold water will permeate the egg contents and suck the bad stuff.
Place the duck eggs in the incubator.
Place the duck egg little end down in the incubator tray. Placing the eggs big end up is important. The egg has an air mobile inside of it and letting it remain on the bigger side of the egg allows for less liquid evaporation and a higher hatchability rate. After placing the duck eggs in the incubator, setting the proper temperature and humidity, then check the incubator is functioning properly a few times throughout the day for the first day and then periodically for the next few days and the duration of the incubation process. Even slight mishaps severely affect the hatchability, too much heat or too little moisture means fewer duckies. Various breeds vary in temperature and humidity settings but typically to start is 99.5 (84.5 deg Fahrenheit if you are using a wet bulb) deg Fahrenheit and 55% relative humidity.
Remove bad eggs in the incubator.
Day 7 is going to be the day to candle the duck eggs and check for bad ones to remove. Remove any eggs that have”dead germ” or eggs which are infertile. Clear or cloudy eggs are the first sign of a rotten egg. On Day 7 you should observe the embryo forming chick like features. Identifying bad eggs is quite important, you don’t need a broken or exploding egg mucking up the incubator and the good eggs. Check the eggs again at day 14 to be sure that you have all good eggs. You should already know the top ducks for eggs.
Day 25 Transfer your Duck Eggs to the Hatcher.
A Hatcher is comparable to the incubator except that the eggs are not being turned anymore and there is enough space for the egg duckling to hatch. Whereas the incubator turns eggs and there is not any room for the infant to hatch. Set the hatchers’ temperature to 98.5 degree’s Fahrenheit and increase the humidity to 94%. Over the next two to five days small ducklings will start popping out of their eggs. Once you see the egg cracking its normal to want to help them along and get them out, don’t do it. “Helping” the duckling along has many devastating consequences, including causing the poor thing to bleed to death. It typically takes about 24 hours for your baby to fully hatch. Therefore don’t help it along unless you absolutely have too.
The brooding box ought to be clean and have a heat source. Food and water are not necessary until 24 hours after it has hatched. The duck is still absorbing nutrients from the egg and requires time to adjust. Click Here for your Wellness Needs